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Introduction
What is what
Colours
Contemporary
reproductions
Photographs
Sources
|
Examples from
the Tokyo National Museum collection 1
- ITSUTSUGINU
2
- KEIKO or UCHIKI HAKAMA
3
- KEIKO KIRIBAKAMA or UCHIKI KIRIBAKAMA
4
- KO UCHIKI & NAGABAKAMA
5
- UNEME SHOZOKU - UNEME costume
6
- Boys at court
7
- UCHIKI
8
- Other costumes Examples from
the Costume Museum Kyoto collection 1
- Empress in early Heian
2
- Empress in middle to late Heian
3
- Princess wedding ceremony
4
- Itsutsuginu kōchiki
5
- Everyday winter costume
6
- Everyday summer costume
7
- Everyday summer costume (Insei period)
8
- Lady-in-waiting
9
- Lady-in-waiting festive
10
- Noble girls Kazami |
Colour
definitions
Textile
designs
The
wardrobe of Empress Tashi
Other
combinations |
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KASANE NO IROME - INTRODUCTION Murasaki Shikibu writing her stories about Genji, wearing jūni-hitoe, looking at a silver moon. Is the name used to define the colour combinations used for HEIAN (794 to 1185) period formal female court attire. During this period in the Japanese Court the ladies-in-waiting, princesses and empresses wore a specific style of dress that was based originally on a Chinese style of dress. As always the japanese adapted this to their own desires and from that emerged the style of dress generally known as JūNI-HITOE, or roughly translated "12 layer robes". The name came from the many layers of robes, of the same shape but diferent colours, that were worn over each other. During the early HEIAN period the number of layers could go up to 20, resulting in governamental rules to be placed on the amount of layers that could be worn. Imagening the amount of weight that must have been to carry around, it is not surprising that these women didn´t actually walk much, but generally crawled small distances and needed help of assistants to move larger distances. The new laws decreased the amount of layers to around 5, not including any official over-robes that could be worn. The name for these 5 layers is ITSUTSUGINU (being 5 KINU or UCHIGI robes. Below the ITSUTSUGINU a robe called HITOE was worn and a style of underwear known as KOSODE (small sleeves) which is the origin of the dress we know as kimono. Over the ITSUTSUGINU a few styles of robe could be worn, like ICHIGINU or UWAGI and a jacket known as KARAGINU with a type of apron worn at the back known as MO. Nature, not only the heat and cold but also period of the year, had a large influence on the styles and colour combinations that could be worn during the year. This resulted in rules and regulations in colour and materials in diferent styles with names that would identify them. In the Japanese Court it was very important to be aware of the and dress accordingly. Making the right choice in dress could make or brake one´s career and name. These pages try to explain and visualise in brief what it looked like to be dressed in this style of attire and how the colours and styles of material would have looked like. ![]() Small book print Court dress of that period is invariably described in the diferent novels or pillow-books of that period, ie. The tale of Genji and The pillow-book of Sei Shonagon. One oficial record that has been preserved is the list of combinations written by Minamoto Masasuke para Senior Grand Empress Tashi in around 1160. That document is known as " Colours for a Court Lady´s Dress" which is part of Masasuke's notes on court costume (Masasuke shōzokushō). It also contains additional notes assumed to be by the empress herself. These colour combinations can be found in the seccion The wardrobe of Empress Tashi. Currently this style of costume is only worn by female members of the Emperor´s family coronation purposes or any princess at their wedding. WHAT IS WHAT! ![]() Style: NYōBō SHōZOKU KOSODE, underkimono with small
sleeves.
HITOE
Chemise or unlined first layer of a set of gowns. ![]() ITSUTSUGINU
The 5 layers of lined UCHIGI or KINU robes ![]() UCHIGINU
Is worn between utsutsuginu and uwagi. Made of beaten down silk, stiff silk garment that hardly showed but provided stiffening for the formal gowns. ![]() UWAGI
Formal over-robe. It´s fabric was prescribed by rank and contained woven patterns. Had a trail, the longer the trail the higher the position of the lady. ![]() KARAGINU
Short chinese jacket. Worn with the mo, brocaded or embroidered or painted.
MO
Apron skirt that was worn on the back as a train" ![]() HI-ōGI or AKOME-ōGI
court fan
![]() Underneath the whole outfit a
HAKAMA or HARIBAKAMA (extra long trousers) are
worn in the colours scarlet-pink
or purple, depending on the combination chosen. Additionaly it is possible to wear a: KO-UCHIGI Dressing gown. Patterned small cut robe that could be thrown over the layered uchigi to give a slightly more dressed effect. There is a very active kimono rental shop in Kyoto that specialises in historical styles, they are called: jidaiya-kyoto.com. Click here to have a look at their site or follow them on instagram. ![]() ![]() A more classic one it The Takata Institute of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume in Tokyo. Here is a link to their web site: http://www.takata-courtrobe.co.jp/en1.htm Here are some bits of information from their site ![]() NYŌBŌ SHŌZOKU (costume for a Court lady-in-waiting) and the equivalent male version. ![]() How the MO is worn! ![]() Colours of the different layers of the costume seen
at the sleeves.
From the right to the left: KARAGINU murasaki UWAGI moegi UCHIGINU dark yamabuki ITSUTSUGINU - the first dark kurenai - the second dark yamabuki - the third light moegi - the fourth moegi - the fifth dark moegi HITOE kurenai COLOURS The colours used were controlled by the governement. Certain colours were only worn by people in certain levels of the japanese population. For court outfits the following were the main basic colours used. Lighter and darker variations were made by dying the material more or less times than the base colour needed. Some samples of real silk rolls and the colours used. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() For more variations see the Colour definitions page.
FOTOGRAPHS OF JAPANESE EMPRESSES OR ROYAL LADYS IN FORMAL ATTIRE ![]() Empress Consort Haruko - 1849-1914 (Empress Shōken, consort to Emperor Meiji) ![]() Empress Teimei - 1884-1951 (consort of Emperor Taishō) Photograph 1912 ![]() Empress Kōjun - 1903-2000 (consort to Emperor Shōwa or Hirohito) Photograph 1926 ![]() His Imperial Highness Kaya Tsunenori (1900-1978) and consort Toshiko (1903-1993) ![]() Prince and princess Akishino - photograph 1990 SOURCES Liza Dalby Kimono, fashioning cultura http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html a history of Japanese clothing and accessories http://www.kariginu.jp KIYOUKAI http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/index.htm The Costume Museum, Kyoto www.yusoku.com Yusoku http://www.takata-courtrobe.co.jp The Takata Institute of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume Takakura - Europalia 89, Japan in Belgium Wikipedea Some photographs from a Japanese magazine about the making of the colours for HEIAN period kimono, from winter 1987 © www.fuyuya.com, where not otherwise specified. 1 - An Imperial Court wife costume ![]() ![]() Highest level of formal dress for the empress during the early Heian
period. The style originates from the Nara period. It seems to appear in
a picture scroll related annual events and to the Murasaki Shikibu
diaries. (Oficial translation unavailable) ![]()
2 - The Imperial Court wife fine fashion of the cloister government age ![]() ![]() Imperial court wife (Empress?) costume in the tsutsuginu style, with
karaginu and mo. It is thought that this style of costume dates from the
second half of the 10th century. At the end of the 12th century, the
second half of the Heian period, is when it became as we know it now.
From the Toba period, the cloister government age, during Shirakawa
reign. During that period it was the most wonderful outfit. The oldest existing explanation related ancient practices and usages at court and in samurai families during the second half of the 12th century are the diaries of Masaaki Minamoto, which also contains descriptions of female court costumes (see The wardrobe of Empress Tashi) There are many other diaries that describe court dress in more or less detail (Oficial translation unavailable.) ![]()
3 - Imperial Court princess marriage ceremony wear ![]() ![]() Even if the marriage ceremony require the best clothes, also in the
Imperial Court, the ceremony itself during the Heian period was not a
public but private affair. During the Heian period there was no Shinto
wedding ceremony. (This changed during the Meiji period when the wedding
of the future Emperor Taisho, the then prince Yoshihito, was held the
ceremony in front of a Imperial ancestor´s shrine, and it became
costum for the normal population as well.) The ceremony was held
in-house. The style of costume in the pictures dates from 12th century. (Oficial translation unavailable.) ![]()
4 - Court lady in semiformal costumes known as "itsutsu-ginu
ko-uchiki" ![]() ![]() The Imperial Court's wife's fundamental full dress is wearing "karaginu"
and "mo. However, instead of wearing the full dress, the nobles
wore "ko-uchiki" in piles on the "hitoe" and "itsutsu-ginu".
"kōchiki" of modern times of Japan is the same type as "uchiki.
Modern "kōchiki" is a dress made by the "mie" cut
which attached "betsuretsu" called "nakabe" between
the outer material and lining cloth. Nontheless, "kōchiki of the
last period in Heian era was considered that its dress length was
somewhat short. The composite figure in the photo shows "itsutsu-ginu
kōchiki," the semiformal costume for court ladies. (original translation) ![]()
5 - Court lady in everyday wear for winter with ko-uchiki (short robe) and naga-bakama (long divided skirt-trousers) ![]() ![]() This is a composite figure of a court lady in everyday wear. "Uchiki
(=robe)" is worn over "hitoe." A red "hakama"
is worn and a white "kosode" is worn under "hitoe."
This dress is for winter season. "uchiki" is "nibaiori."
"hitoe" is "kartaji-aya" patterned with "saiwaibishi-mon."
The"uchiki" was sometimes worn in layers. The court lady holds
"akome oogi (=fan)" in her hand. The hair style is straight
long hair. Beside the cheeks, she has a pair of short hair called "binsogi"
which is the mark of married or an engagement. (original translation) ![]()
6 - Court lady in everyday wear for summer season ![]() ![]() The photo shows a composite figure of a court lady in everyday wear. "Uchiki
(=robe)" is worn over "hitoe." A red "hakama"
is worn and a white "kosode" is worn under "hitoe."
This "uchiki" for summer season is made of "kenmonshaji"
(=dress material). " At the time of intense heat in summer, only a
piece of "hitoe" might be worn, or some pieces might be worn
in layers without "uchiki." (original translation) ![]()
7 - Court lady's everyday wear for summer at Insei period (1086 -1185) in latter term of Heian era ![]() ![]() The court lady's everyday wear is a combination of "uchiki", "hitoe"
and "hakama." "Masasuke Shouzoku Shou "(=a costume
collection )" edited at the Insei period writes; "From June,
the court ladies wear " hitoe-gasane," light red and light
blue in color ... " and it also writes; "The court ladies
change their dresses on July 7 ...," and "The court ladies
wear "hineri-gasane" from August 1 till 15 ..." Two
pieces of "hitoe" make the "hitoe-gasane" style. In
the same way, three pieces of it make the"hineri-gasane"
style. The costumes of Hojo Masako (1157-1225), the wife of Minamoto no
Yoritomo, the founder of Kamakura Shogunate, are kept in the
Tsuruokahachiman Shrine. They are three kinds of "hineri-gasane"
and a piece of "Hitoe." Kenshunmonin Chunagon Diary has
described about the combination of three pieces of "hitoe." It
is considered to be a court lady's everyday wear. August is in September
of the solar calendar. Therefore, it is autumn. June is in July of the
solar calendar. Therefore, since it was in the midst of summer, "hitoe"
was made into the array of everyday wear in piles at two sheets. This
photograph shows "hitoe-kasane" of summer. The material is raw
silk. The pattern "fusen-aya" could be used, but the composite
figure is wearing "hitoe" with the pattern of "saiwai-bishi
mon" which is indigo blue in color. The undergarment is called "kakitsubata-gasane
(iris suit)" which is yellowish green in color. The figure is also
wearing "kosode (=undergarment, literally short sleeve)" and
red "naga-bakama." ![]()
8 - An Imperial Court adult woman´s costume ![]() ![]() It is a court dress of the adult age woman who is equivalent to a boy's
full court dress, and is the full dress of the Imperial Court. it is
also called a karaginumo. It is thought that such a figure was
materialized in the middle of the Heian period in the second half of the
tenth century. Although the style has changed from the original
somewhat, the tradition is continued for a long time, and it is used as
a dress of the special ceremony of the Imperial Court today also. At the special time of a ceremony, the hair is arranged to the top of the head and is decorated with a comb. The costume is based on the complete set of itsutsuginu (5 layers), uchiki robe, long hakama trousers and karaginu and mo. The mo is handpainted with various motifs like a pine, a plum, and a mandarin orange tree. (Oficial translation unavailable. Partial machine, parcial human translation.) ![]()
9 - Imperial Court woman festive costume ![]() ![]() This is a young woman´s holiday costume and small over-robe with
lenghts of silk without starch. The kosode, short sleeved kimono, is now eing used in several layers, becoming the basis of the kimono as we know it now. During this period the amount of layers was being reduced to 3 (instead of the 5 in tsutsuginu style) and the use of kosode, short sleeved kimono, to create they layered efect which can be seen at the collar. This combination makes use of 3 kosode, 2 in white and 1 in red, to create layers, and the outer kinu robes, which are 3. The special unstarched silk split end robe is placed on top and is held with a small obi belt. The kosode is the original under-robe that will become what we now know as the kimono. During the 15th and 16th century it will become the focus of the samurai class and later merchant class to demonstrate power and money. (Oficial translation unavailable. Partial machine, parcial human translation.) ![]()
10 - Young daughter of the noble family in formal dress called "kazami" ![]() ![]() "Kazami" is a formal dress for the daughter of noble family,
and was originally designed as inner clothes ( underwear) to soak up
sweat. Eventually it became an outer dress for the people in lower
social class. It was made larger to be used for the full dress of the
youong daughters of the imperial court. Therefore, naturally the
original form of "kazami" must be quite different from the one
worn by the young daughters of the imperial court, but then both of them
are "hitoe," unlined kimono clothes after all. The features of full dress of young daughter of imperial court are, a round-shaped neckband, "ketteki" (=outer kimono clothes with open armholes), 2 kins of body width, and 2 kins of sleeve width, 1 jo 6 shaku of front part kimono length (=dresser's length) and 1 jo 5 shaku of back part kimono. The figure in the photo is dressed in a square form with the neckband desined in a round shape. Under the "kazami" it wears "akome", "itsutsu-ginu (=five clothes)," "uchiki (=middle garment)," "hitoe (=unlined garment)", a white omote-bakama (=divided skirt), all of which are layered up on long "hari-bakama ." They are all based on the sizes shown in the Masasuke Shouzoku (=costume) Selection" (Original text machine translated.) ![]()
COLOUR DEFINITIONS Please remember that all colours are approximations and based on found information and own deductions. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
OTHER COLOUR EXAMPLES (approximations and my interpretations)
UCHIGINU and UWAGI As discussed before the full court costume known as NYōBō SHōZOKU was worn by the women in the Imperial household during the 11th century (the midlle of the HEIAN ERA of Japan). This was a variation of CHōFUKU from around the 9th century worn by ladies-in-waiting at the Japanese court. The style NYōBō SHōZOKU consists of KARAGINU (jacket), UWAGI (outer layer), UCHIGINU(glossed robe), ITSUTSUGINU (5 layers of colours), HITOE (under layer), MO (apron worn like a trail at the back), HAKAMA (trousers), HIOUGI (fan). The UWAGI to HITOE robes are basically the same in style and the outermost robe to be layered among them is called UWAGI. The UCHIGINU or UWAGI robes are generally decorated with designs in diferent colours, the other robes have designs in "jacquard" tecnique. ![]() ![]() Below you can find some examples of design used for the UWAGI and UCHIGINU robes. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Original material produced by YUSOKU The following are some examples of UWAGI robes and when they would be used, by The Takata Institute of Japanese Imperial Classical Costume SPRING
![]() ![]() ALL SEASONS ![]() ![]() AUTUNM/FALL
![]() ![]() AUTUMN/FALL
![]() ![]() COLOURS FOR A COURT LADY'S DRESS Senior Grand Empress Tashi´s clothes list prepared by Minamoto Masasuke (as listed in KIMONO by Liza Dalby)
KASANE COMBINATIONS Kasane combinations by Anthony J. Bryant, from his internet site: "a history of Japanese clothing and accessories" - www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb Some information and colours have been changed. Most combinations are 5 itsutsuginu layers, but some have more. Also some examples have KO-UCHIGI as an extra layer on top of the UWAGI robe. Names can be repeated but that does not mean the combinations are the same or that they are used in the same season.
COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION ITSUTSUGINU Dated: TAISHŌ period![]() ![]() ITSUTSUGINU, KARAGINU and MO ![]() ![]() hair ornaments, HINOKI ŌGI/HI ŌGI fan, TABI socks, SHIMETAI belt, ASAGUTSU shoes Formal wear for high level royal women. ITSUTSUGINU set contains: - NAGAHAKAMA/HARIBAKAMA long trousers - HITOE - UTSUTSUGINU, 5 layers of UCHIKI - UCHIGINU - UWAGI - KARAGINU, jacket on top - MO, the trailing apron like garment worn at the back - ASAGUTSU shoes The hair ornaments consist of a hairpiece, called MARUKAIMOJI, which is attached to the top of the head to support the OSHIYASHI, which consists of the HIRABITAI, the small sun-like ornament with 3 rays shooting out, HIRAKUSHI, the comb, and 1 hairpin called HIRAKANZASHI, flat hairpin, and 2 smaller and rounder MARUKANZASHI. All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION KEIKO or UCHIKI HAKAMA Dated: TAISHŌ Period![]() ![]() Court style for women, established in 1884 as formal wear in the palace. This outfit consists of: - NAGABAKAMA long trousers - KO-UCHIKI, or small UCHIKI - UCHIKI - ITSUTSUGINU - HITOE - HINOKI ŌGI/HI ŌGI fan - TABI socks - SHIMETAI belt - hair ornaments MARUKAIMOJI and OSHIYASHI, as described above. All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION KEIKO KIRIBAKAMA or UCHIKI KIRIBAKAMA Dated: TAISHŌ Period![]() ![]() This outfit consist of: - KIRIBAKAMA or normal length HAKAMA trousers. - UCHIKI/UCHIGINU - UWAGI - HINOKI ŌGI/HI ŌGI fan - SHIMETAI belt - shoes - TATŌGAMI, folding paper-case kimono wrapping paper (paper folded and tucked inside the front of one's kimono (esp. for use at the tea ceremony)) All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION KO UCHIKI & NAGABAKAMA Dated: EDO period![]() This is a lighter version of the earlier outfits for official senior women. It consists of: - NAGABAKAMA/HARIBAKAMA long trousers - KO UCHIKI, a single llined UCHIKI All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION UNEME SHŌZOKU - UNEME costume Dated: TAISHŌ Period![]() ![]() ![]() Costume for a high level female servant called UNEME. UNEME means "selected beautiful woman" and they were chosen to serve the Emperor. Generally they were chosen from the upperclass families. The material of the EGINU KOSODE was strictly regulated. This costume consists of: - KIRIBAKAMA, normal length HAKAMA trousers.. - EGINU, a whitish KOSODE decorated with design that included clouds and plants and flowers. - the outfit would normally also contain a HITOE and a short KARAGINU on top, Not shown here. - TABI socks. A special set of hair accessories: - The additional hairpiece MARUKAIMOJI - to support the KOKOROBA, a kind of artifical flower used for formal attire only, - with a HIRABITAI and - HIRAKUSHI and - 3 KANZASHI to attach it all. - Also HIKAGE NO ITO, hanging plaited threads, All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION Boys at court A set of boy clothes for appearing at court would contain the following items:![]() IKAN ![]() HAKAMA ![]() HIŌGI ![]() HŌ for a child Dated: 19th Century All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION UCHIKI ![]() ![]() UCHIKI - 20th century ![]() ![]() UCHIKI - 20th century ![]() ![]() UCHIKI - 20th century ![]() ![]() UCHIKI - 20th century ![]() ![]() UCHIKI - 20th century All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. COURT COSTUMES FROM THE TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM COLLECTION Other items ![]() HAKAMA ![]() HŌ ![]() HŌGI ![]() IKAN ![]() SASHINUKI ![]() SASHINUKI ![]() ![]() HITATARE ![]() ![]() SOKUTAI ![]() ![]() HŌGI All photographs are from the Tokyo National Museum - Image Search - copyright free database. |