COLOURS FOR A COURT LADY'S DRESS

Senior Grand Empress Tashi´s clothes list prepared by Minamoto Masasuke (as listed in KIMONO by Liza Dalby)

1 Things for SPECIAL OCCASIONS, no special time of year
2 From the 10th lunar month: PADDED SILK
3 From GOSECHI (festival around middle of 11th month) through SPRING
4 The 4th lunar month: COLOURS FOR THIN ROBES
5 The 5th lunar month: STIFF EDGES (HINERI GASANE) (2 week period) (5 sets are repeats of other. Not identified which ones)
6 The 6th month: UNLINED ROBES (july)
7 From the 7th day of the 7th lunar month: CHANGE OUTFITS (3 week period)
8 From the first day of the 8the lunar month to the 15th: STIFF EDGES Repeating colour schemes, only 1 new one
9 From the 15th day of the 8th lunar month to the 9th day of the 9th month: UNPADDED RAW SILK ( 3 week period)

1 Things for SPECIAL OCCASIONS

KOBAI NO NIOI
Shades of plum-pink
Blue-green or
Deep-red
Deep plum-pink Lighter Lighter Lighter Pale Plum-pink


. . . . .

.
. . . . .
KURENAI NO NIOI
Shades of scarlet-pink
Plum-pink Pale pink Darker Darker Darker Scarlet-pink

.
. .. . . .
KURENAI NO USUYO
Scarlet-pink laye0rs on white
White White White Light scarlet-pink Medium scarlet-pink Dark scarlet-pink






. . .
MATSU GASANE
Pine tree
Scarlet-pink Dark sprout-green Medium sprout-green Light Sprout-green Light maroon Deep maroon

.
. . . . .
MATSUGASANE
TASHI version
Scarlet pink Dark sprout-green Medium sprout-green Light sprout-green Light blue-green Deep blue-green

.
. . . . .
MOEGI NO NIOI
Shades of sprout-green
Scarlet-pink Dark sprout-green Lighter Lighter Lighter Light sprout-green

.
. . . . .
SUO NO NIOI
version 1
Shades of maroon
Blue-green Dark maroon Slightly darker maroon Middle maroon Slightly darker maroon Light maroon

.
. . . . .
SUO NO NIOI
version 2
Variation on Shades of maroon
Blue-green Deep persimmon White Light maroon Medium maroon Deep maroon


.

. . .
URA KOKI SUO
Deep maroon linings
Blue-green Mid-range maroon
Lining darker shade of maroon
Mid-range maroon
Lining darker shade of maroon
Mid-range maroon
Lining darker shade of maroon
Mid-range maroon
Lining darker shade of maroon
Mid-range maroon
Lining darker shade of maroon
. . . . . . . . . .
USU MOEGI
Pale moegi duet
Scarlet-pink Pale blue-green
Lining slightly darker blue-green
Pale blue-green
Lining slightly darker blue-green
Pale blue-green
Lining slightly darker blue-green
Pale blue-green
Lining slightly darker blue-green
Pale blue-green
Lining slightly darker blue-green

.
. . . . . . . . . .
YANAGI
version 1
Willow
Scarlet-pink White
Lining pale blue-green
White
Lining pale blue-green
White
Lining pale blue-green
White
Lining pale blue-green
White
Lining pale blue-green

.


.

.

.

.

.
YANAGI
version 2
Willow
Scarlet-pink White
Lining dark blue-green
White
Lining medium-dark blue-green
White
Lining medium blue-green
White
Lining pale-medium blue-green
White
Lining pale blue-green
..



.

.

.

.

.

2 From the 10th lunar month: PADDED SILK

AO MOMIJI
Green maples
Maroon Scarlet pink Golden yellow Pale yellow Deep yellow Blue-green


. . . . .
HAJI MOMIJI
Sumac maples
Scarlet-pink Maroon Scarlet-pink Golden yellow Pure yellow Pure yellow

.
. . . . .
HAJI MOMIJI
TASHI version
Maroon Maroon Maroon Golden Golden Yellow

.
. .. . . .
KAEDE MOMIJI
Downy maples
Scarlet-pink
or
Maroon
Scarlet-pink Golden yellow Pure yellow Light blue-green Light blue-green


. . . . .

.
. . . . .
KIGIKU
Yellow chrysanthemums
Variegated scarlet-pink
or
Blue-green
Pale yellow Pale yellow Shade of maroon Shade of maroon Shade of maroon

.
. . . . .

.
. . . . .
KURENAI MOMIJI
Pink maples
Scarlet-pink Blue-green Pure yellow Golden yellow Scarlet-pink

.
. . . .

KIKU NO YOYO
(like SUO NO NIOI with white lining)
Diverse chrysanthemums
Blue-green Light maroon
Lining white
Medium-light maroon
Lining white
Medium maroon
Lining white
Dark-medium maroon
Lining white
Dark maroon
Lining white

.
.

.

.

.

.

MOJIRI MOMIJI
Mixed maples
Scarlet-pink Scarlet-pink
Lining pale yellow
Golden yellow
Lining pure yellow
Pure yellow
Lining golden yellow
Pale blue-green
Lining scarlet-pink
Deep blue-green
Lining light scarlet-pink

.
. . . . . . . . . .

3 From GOSECHI (middle of the 11th month) through spring.

FUTATSU NO IRO NI
Colours-two by two
Double chemise scarlet-pink Double layer of sprout-green Pure yellow
Lining golden yellow
Pure yellow
Lining golden yellow
Lavender Lavender

. . . . . . .
.
FUTATSU NO IRO NI
TASHI version
Double chemise scarlet-pink Sprout-green
and
Plum-pink
Pure yellow
Lining golden yellow
Pure yellow
Lining golden yellow
Sprout-green Sprout-green

.
. . . . . . .
.
HANA YAMABUKI
Flowering kerria rose
Blue-green Medium golden yellow Medium golden yellow Medium golden yellow Medium golden yellow Medium golden yellow

.
. . . . .
IRO IRO
Diverse colours
Scarlet-pink Light maroon
Lining dark maroon
Pale golden yellow Plum-pink Sprout-green Lavender


. . . . . .
MURASAKI NO USUYO
Purple layers on white
White White White Pale purple Medium purple Dark purple






. . .
MURASAKI MURAGO
Purple deep and pale
Scarlet-pink Pale blue-green Dark blue-green Pale purple Medium purple Dark purple
.

. . . . .
MURASAKI NO NIOI
Shades of purple
Scarlet-pink Pale lavender Lavender Purple Medium purple Deep purple

.
. . . . .
UME GASANE
Plum layers
Deep purple
or
Blue-green
Maroon Scarlet-pink Plum-pink Light plum-pink White with pale tinge of plum-pink

.
. . . . .

.
. . . . .
UMEGASANEA
Deep purple Or Blue-green Maroon Scarlet-pink Plum-pink Or Scarlet Plum-pink Or Scarlet Plum-pink Or Scarlet
TASHI version 1
.
. . . . .
TASHI version 2
.
. . . . .
YAMABUKI NO NIOI
Shades of golden yellow
Blue-green Pure yellow Pale golden yellow Light golden yellow Medium golden yellow Deep golden yellow
.

. . . . .
YUKI NO SHITA
Beneath the snow
Blue-green Light plum-pink Medium plum-pink Dark plum-pink White White


.
. . .



UMEZOME
Plum dyeing
Blue-green White
Lining deep maroon
White
Lining deep maroon
White
Lining deep maroon
White
Lining deep maroon
White
Lining deep maroon
.
.


.

.

.

.

.
URA YAMABUKI
Golden yellow linings
Blue-green Pure yellow
Lining deep golden yellow
Pure yellow
Lining deep golden yellow
Pure yellow
Lining deep golden yellow
Pure yellow
Lining deep golden yellow
Pure yellow
Lining deep golden yellow

..
. . . . . . . . . .

4 The 4th lunar month: COLOURS FOR THIN ROBES

HANA TACHIBANA
Flowering mandarin orange
White
or
Blue-green
Pale blue-green Deep blue-green White Pale Golden yellow Deep Golden yellow


. .

. .

.
. .
. .
MOCHI TSUTSUJI
Rhododendron
White Pale blue-green Deep blue-green Light maroon Medium maroon Dark maroon


.. . . . .
SHOBU
Sweet flag iris
White raw silk (SUSUSHI) Pale plum-pink Deep plum-pink White Pale blue-green Deep blue-green


. .

. .
TSUTSUJI
Azalea
White
or
Scarlet pink
Pale blue-green Deep blue-green Light scarlet-pink Medium scarlet-pink Dark scarlet-pink


. . . . .

.
. . . . .
BOTAN
Peony
White raw silk Pale maroon
Lining white
Pale maroon
Lining white
Pale maroon
Lining white
Pale maroon
Lining white
Pale maroon
Lining white


.

.

.

.

.

FUJI in raw silk
Wisteria
White
or
Scarlet-pink
White
Lining lavender
White
Lining deep purple
Lavender
Lining lavender
Medium purple
Lining medium purple
Deep purple
Lining deep purple




.

. . . . . . .

.


.

. . . . . . .
NADESHIKO
Dianthus
White
or
Scarlet-pink
White
Lining pale blue-green
White
Lining deep blue-green
Deep maroon
Lining plum-pink
Maroon
Lining scarlet-pink
Pale maroon
Lining maroon




.

. . . . . . .

.


.

. . . . . . .
SHIRO NADESHIKO
White Dianthus
White
or
Scarlet-pink
White
Lining pale blue-green
White
Lining deep blue-green
White
Lining plum-pink
White
Lining maroon
White
Lining white




.

.

.

.




.


.

.

.

.



U NO HANA
Saxifrage
White White
Lining pale blue-green
White
Lining deep blue-green
White
Lining yellow
White
Lining white
White
Lining white




.

.

.







WAKA KAEDE
New leaves of downy maple
White
or
Scarlet-pink
Light sprout-green Lining light sprout-green Light sprout-green Lining light sprout-green Light sprout-green Lining light sprout-green Light sprout-green Lining light sprout-green Light sprout-green Lining light sprout-green


. . . . . . . . . .

.
. . . . . . . . . .
WAKA SHOBU
Young sweet flag iris
White raw silk White
Lining pale plum-pink
White
Lining plum-pink
Pale blue-green
Lining deep plum-pink
Pale blue-green
Lining white
Deep blue-green
Lining white




.

. . . .

.

5 The 5th lunar month: STIFF EDGES (HINERI GASANE)

KAKITSUBATA
Ruffled iris
Scarlet-pink Pale blue-green Deep blue-green Light lavender Medium lavender Dark lavender

.
. . . . .

6 The 6th month: UNLINED ROBES

Single unlined robe in:

White
Old-leaf tan Scarlet-pink Lavender Turquoise-green
Blue-green Maroon



.
. . . . .

KARAKAMI (stencil-painted silk) robe, which may be in various colours.

KEMONSA (silk gauze with a woven pattern) or FUSENRYO (a floating warp pattern gauze) robe.


7 From the 7th day of the 7th lunar month: CHANGE OUTFITS

HAGI
(A gown woven of lavender and blue-green thread)
Lespedeza
Blue-green
Hagi Hagi Hagi Hagi Hagi


. . . . .
OMINAESHI
(A gown woven of yellow and blue-green thread)
Maidenflower
Blue-green Ominaeshi Ominaeshi Ominaeshi Ominaeshi Ominaeshi

.
. . . . .

8 From the 1st day of the 8th lunar month to the 15th: STIFF EDGES

KIKU (Chrysanthemum) in unlined robes with starch-stiffened edges

MOMIJI (Maples) in unlined robes with starch-stiffened edges

RINDÔ
Gentiaan
Scarlet-pink Pale blue-green Deep blue-green Light lavender Medium lavender Dark lavender

.
. . . . .
SUSUKI
Plumed pampas grass
White Pale blue-green Deep blue-green Light maroon Medium maroon Deep maroon


. . . . .
SUSUKI
TASHI version
But not clear what she means
Maroon Light maroon Medium maroon Deep maroon Pale blue-green Deep blue-green
.

. . . . .

9 From the 15th day of the 8th lunar month to the 9th day of the 9th month: UNPADDED RAW SILK

Maroon, lavender and white are appropriate colours for robes.

MOMIJI (Maples) combinations in raw silks

KIKU (Chrysanthemum) combinations in raw silks

OMINAESHI
(yellow and blue-green)
Maidenflower
Scarlet-pink Ominaeshi
Lining blue-green
Ominaeshi
Lining blue-green
Ominaeshi
Lining blue-green
Ominaeshi
Lining blue-green
Ominaeshi
Lining blue-green


. . . . . . . . . .